Most bags require zippers. When it comes to the zippers you use, there are so many options out there that I thought I would put together a little something that might help you decide what kind of zipper you want in your bag.
First of all, lets start with a simple diagram showing the anatomy of a closed-end coil zipper. This will help during this article when I refer to the various parts of a zipper:
Zipper teeth can be made from coil, molded plastic, or metal. Coil is the most popular zipper among the three types of zippers. This versatile zipper can be used in anything such as apparel, luggage, handbags, and sporting goods.
The rest of this article will concentrate on coil zippers as that is the type I sell.
A Few Types of Zippers
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| Continuous Chain |
Zipper pulls are sold separately. You can add single or double 'head to head' pulls. Double head pulls face each other so you can open the zipper from the center out.
Closed End - has a full tab stop at the bottom and is open at the top (with tab stops) and includes 1 coordinating zipper pull. This type of zipper is generally sewn into a project at the bottom, as in a skirt.
Separating - such as a jacket zipper, where instead of a bottom stop there is an insertion pin and retainer box so the zipper can come apart.
Invisible - when sewn into your project (usually a garment) you do not see the zipper teeth on the outside.
Coil Zippers
Metal Finish Coil Zippers
Nylon coil zipper tape with electroplated metal finish teeth is easy to work with. It has a 'faux' metal finish that provides a similar look to using metal zippers, but can be cut and sewn through just like any other nylon coil zipper.These zippers come with fancy metal zipper pulls and really give your projects some flare!
Zipper Sizes
Nylon coil zippers come in sizes from Size 2 to Size 10. The number is the approximate width of the zipper, in millimeters, when closed. The smaller the number, the smaller the zipper - but not necessarily less strong! Picking your zipper is about frequency of use, where the zipper is used, the type of fabric being used, and whether you want the zipper tape to show in your project.
I only carry sizes #3, #4.5 and #5, so will not go into the use of the heavier zippers. However, there is no reason why you can't use a #8 zipper in your handbag if you are looking to make a statement with your zipper!
Size 3: Considered the 'all purpose zipper', this is probably the size found at most fabric stores. Use in pillows, duvet covers, handbags made of lightweight fabrics, and interior handbag pockets. This size can take rough handling, hot water laundering, and is strong, yet supple.
Size 4.5: Medium weight fabrics or where you need a little more security such as handbags. It has a wider tape to make it easier to sew into your project. Size 4.5 is considered a 'handbag zipper'.
Size 5: Heavier weight fabrics or where you want even more security. Use in handbags, carryall bags and luggage. Size 5 zippers do not bend as easily as the size 3 or #4.5.
Zipper Sliders and Pulls
The zipper slider consists of the slider body, the crown (the pull tab holder) and the pull tab. The slider body is the piece that slides up & down the zipper teeth opening and closing the zipper, and the pull is the piece you hold onto to pull the slider up and down. Note that the zipper sliders from one brand (ie: YKK brand) are usually not interchangeable with other zipper brands.
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| Head To Head |
There are two main styles of zipper sliders used in bag construction:
Single - a zipper with a single slider used to open and close the zipper. This is the most common type and is used in bags, bag pockets, small craft projects and garments.
Double - a zipper with two sliders facing each other head to head, mainly used for luggage and bags. When the zipper is closed, the sliders are together.
When you make your own zipper using continuous zipper chain, you can select the style of zipper slider you desire: single or double, enamel or metal finish, standard sliders or decorative sliders.
Inserting Sliders Onto Continuous Chain Zippers
I created this video: "How to Put Standard Zipper Sliders or Pulls on Zipper Tape", that will help you when putting sliders onto your zipper tape.
Top & Bottom Stops
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| Wedge |
The purpose of zipper stops is to keep the zipper sliders from derailing when the zipper is in use. In handbag construction, use of top and bottom stops can be optional. If the ends of the zipper chain are sewn into a seam, you may choose not to attach top/bottom stops because the seam will act as the stops. Or you can sew a 'wedge' to your zipper to act as the stop.
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| Grip Tab |
Another option is to attach a grip tab to one or both ends of the zipper chain. It is often made from the fashion fabric used in the handbag. This finish will prevent the zipper slider from dislodging while the tab itself can be gripped in the hand when operating the zipper.
